IFSC Climbing World Cup Moscow 2019 - Bouldering Finals

Skupna raba
Vdelaj
  • Objavljeno 14. apr. 2019
  • For the bouldering stage, route setters quickly raised the bar very high only allowing 7 tops in the entire Semi-Finals, creating a real challenge for those wanting to advance to the finals.
    The finals were a different story. In order for the athletes to have even reached the podium they would have needed to top all 4 problems. Even topping 3 problems like Futaba ITO (JPN), Jessica PILZ (AUT) and Lucka RAKOVEC (SLO) wouldn’t have been enough, all coming out at the bottom with a rank of 6, 5 and 4 respectively. Lucka, 17 years old, was very impressive for her first IFSC World Cup including 3 flashes!
    A close race between Fanny GIBERT (FRA) and Shauna COXSEY (GBR) was particularly intense as they tied in the finals (4T4z 6 6), but Shauna ultimately coming out on top due to her first-place finish in the Semis.
    As in Meiringen, Janja GARNBRET (SLO) looked powerful and confident. She flashed all 4 problems and won her 2nd consecutive gold medal in the 2019 competition season.
    Her compatriot, Jernej KRUDER finished almost as well with 4 tops (“only” 2 flashes) winning himself a gold medal. Adam ONDRA (CZE) missed his chance to win a second gold medal without topping M4.
    Yoshiyuki OGATA (JPN) didn’t even reach the zone in M4, but still managed to end the competition on the 3rd step of the podium.
    With 2 tops and 3 zones, Anze PEHARC (SLO) finished the competition with his best performance in an IFSC World Cup.
    All the information about the event on:
    www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=7926
    About IFSC:
    The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
    About the Channel:
    The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
    World up...Keep climbing!
    Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
    Facebook: facebook.com/sportclimbing
    Twitter: twitter.com/IFSClimbing
    SLclip: slclip.com/user/ifscchannel
    LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/international-federation-of-sport-climbing
  • ŠportŠport

Komentarjev • 123

  • Timo Arnold
    Timo Arnold Pred 13 urami

    Puhhh Adam Ondra is still human

  • Thomas Pham
    Thomas Pham Pred 15 urami

    I want Adam Ondra to scream like he does out doors. That'll be epic. Try hard!!!

  • Heven1o
    Heven1o Pred dnevom

    Love how she says, Comon Jessie

  • Rock Steady
    Rock Steady Pred dnevom

    1st place trophy looks like its a 4th place (1:28:30) hehehe i can imagine Janja showing it to someone and that someone thinking "Humm are you sure you didnt get 4th?" hehehehe

  • Cacovangor
    Cacovangor Pred 2 dnevi

    Utterly disappointed with the set for the women for not displaying the strength and capacity of the athletes. This seemed more an exhibition than a championship...

  • Schmetterling
    Schmetterling Pred 2 dnevi

    Cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon uuuuuhhhhhhhhh cmon yeah?

  • Truth Matters
    Truth Matters Pred 2 dnevi

    c'mon ! thats gonna haunt me for long time..did anybody tell her the climbers cant hear her ?

  • Truth Matters
    Truth Matters Pred 2 dnevi

    who is the female commentator? annoying !

    • Truth Matters
      Truth Matters Pred 11 urami

      +Yann Lisicki thanks..I hope she wont be commenting any soon :D

    • Yann Lisicki
      Yann Lisicki Pred 18 urami +1

      Katja Kadic

    • Truth Matters
      Truth Matters Pred 2 dnevi

      +Schmetterling no shit sherlock..i wouldnt guess that in a million years :D

    • Schmetterling
      Schmetterling Pred 2 dnevi

      Ex pro

  • Jonas Joha Johanson
    Jonas Joha Johanson Pred 2 dnevi +2

    It's such a shame that professionals who excel in climbing are forced to rely on RedBull's money to earn their livings. Just wait till they convert climbing to some sort of circus aka "extreme sport" where only the person who does the most extreme and dangerous stuff wins. In a perfect world a professional climber could make a living from their profession just like any other football, soccer, tennis or golf player. I really hope the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo will make climbing a bit more public. It's time for those people to make some money during their time as a professional climber. At least enough to build a live on later on.

  • DeathMonkeyRacer
    DeathMonkeyRacer Pred 2 dnevi +1

    Regarding the women's route setting, the boulders being too easy can still make for an interesting final as it is then more important to flash them. The main frustration for me is that the last two boulders were essentially the same moves. Still enjoyable round overall I felt.

  • Marika Svensson
    Marika Svensson Pred 2 dnevi

    Is it really only janja that uses the "signature move"?

    • Moonti
      Moonti Pred dnevom

      It's a move to cut down momentum after a dyno and pretty much all climbers do it but Janja has a habit to raise her leg really high when doing it hence it being her "signature move"

  • Master Propper
    Master Propper Pred 3 dnevi +1

    I know the girl in the booth is no professional commentator, and maybe I wouldn't do a much better job, but someone should have told her to refrain from cheering on the climbers while commentating. It's super super repetitive, super annoying, and even interrupts the absolutely professional and great commentary of Charlie Boscoe.
    COME ON FANNY, COME ON LUCKA, COME ON JESSE, COME ON JANJA, COME ON SHAUNA - NICE! ... not.

  • Liam Fox
    Liam Fox Pred 3 dnevi +1

    10:39 Adam Ondra's like wtf

  • Clayton Davey
    Clayton Davey Pred 3 dnevi +1

    Glad we have a guest co caster to repeat the words "come on" and "nice" 25 times per minute. Really adds to my enjoyment of the event.

  • Aaron Flynn
    Aaron Flynn Pred 3 dnevi

    ADAM ONDRA - 01:48:11, 01:59:45, 02:23:00, 02:44:50

  • Pius tus
    Pius tus Pred 3 dnevi +4

    Routesetting for the women just cannot happen on a professional level. .... It is not only really disappointing to watch, but foremost disrespectful towards the female climbers

  • Дмитрий Арсентьев

    3:05:17 nice russian socks! Wonder if anyone told Jernej what's written there :)

  • Malte Peters
    Malte Peters Pred 3 dnevi +2

    Quote: Japanese, they are all just so good... and there is so many of them. Lol

  • Austin Lokey
    Austin Lokey Pred 3 dnevi

    What about Chon, Narasaki, & the rest of the high placing Japanese men team?

    • Funclimb
      Funclimb Pred 3 dnevi

      Narasaki didn't go to Moscow.

  • Thomas Koller
    Thomas Koller Pred 3 dnevi +2

    Please edit the start out where nothing's happening. And please don't put the logo on top of the watch. Would make the videos much more professional. Like the rest and the commenting.

  • Rob C
    Rob C Pred 3 dnevi +2

    Charlie, just saying I found your commentary a bit annoying for this round.
    "perfect start" - it wasn't flash, therefore it wasn't perfect.
    "he learnt a bit about the move" - no, he had a high foot the first time so it was a different move.
    Just sounded a bit amateurish really, sorry.

    • Schmetterling
      Schmetterling Pred 2 dnevi

      Any more amateurish than the female commentator

  • Blaise Zak
    Blaise Zak Pred 3 dnevi

    Ondra: 1:48:28
    2:00:00
    2:23:15
    2:45:11

  • dawn brown
    dawn brown Pred 3 dnevi +3

    The route setting made this final rather boring to watch... way too easy I'm afraid.

  • cheznikos
    cheznikos Pred 3 dnevi +1

    worst final in the history of bouldering wc due to the route setters. Also it would have been nice to find out where all the japanese are. I guess they made a smart choice skipping that one. Imagine how many more boring tops we would have to endure then!

  • Mister Anderson
    Mister Anderson Pred 3 dnevi +7

    2:26:11 Kruder wtf how

  • SnowmansApartment
    SnowmansApartment Pred 3 dnevi

    wt... was so surprised at the end xD

  • KK
    KK Pred 3 dnevi +22

    Climbing starts at 29:20

  • mog10e
    mog10e Pred 3 dnevi +3

    WOMEN
    Ito Rakovec Pilz Gibert Garnbret Coxsey SCORES
    W1 29:27 31:27 35:31 39:40 40:54 42:36 44:24
    W2 44:56 46:09 47:34 48:49 50:07 51:18 52:44
    W3 55:02 59:25 1:00:36 1:04:36 1:07:33 1:09:04 1:11:28
    W4 1:11:46 1:14:00 1:15:12 1:17:00 1:18:24 1:19:56 1:22:24*
    MEN
    Kruder Timonov Ogata Peharc Kawamata Ondra SCORES
    M1 1:30:50 1:32:44 1:37:00 1:40:00 1:43:44 1:48:15 1:50:03
    M2 1:50:39 1:51:58 1:53:58 1:55:13 1:57:27 1:59:45 2:01:02
    M3 2:03:10 2:07:10 2:11:22 2:14:12 2:18:40 2:23:00 2:25:59
    M4 2:26:13 2:27:41 2:31:56 2:36:18 2:40:38 2:44:52 2:49:21

    -----
    * Shauna Coxseys final ranking was second not third (listen 1:31:29)

  • Juan Gª Chicano Muñoz
    Juan Gª Chicano Muñoz Pred 3 dnevi +1

    Pretty bad audiovisual production...

    • Sean Harris
      Sean Harris Pred dnevom

      I do not agree, can you explain your opinion ??

  • Archie Croft
    Archie Croft Pred 3 dnevi +2

    For the routesetting, do they have men setting out the men's routes and women for the women's routes? I'm new to this so I'm not sure how it works. Thanks.

    • FinalFr3ak
      FinalFr3ak Pred 3 dnevi +1

      Yeah they do. Problem is there are few, if any women setting routes for the championship.

  • Elias Hardt
    Elias Hardt Pred 3 dnevi +4

    You can hear the pain in Charlie’s voice after the three flashes of W2

  • Mikhail Podobin
    Mikhail Podobin Pred 4 dnevi

    а наш то обосрался и конкретно причём!

  • John McMahon
    John McMahon Pred 4 dnevi +7

    Such an amazing women's semi-final followed by a real dull women's final. The commentators always say that these top fests are more interesting for the viewers: they are not. I don't mind it when a boulder does not get topped, as long as it gets unlocked (like Fanny Gibert on women's 4 in the semis - obviously figured out the boulder, but just was not quite able to stick the last move).
    P.S. A note to the commentators and route setters: looking through the comments it appears most people like the boulders to be a real challenge over real easy. Charlie says that a boulder that does not get topped is "over-cooked", but as long as people get close to topping it, then I don't think there are many people who would agree with him.

  • Grotop
    Grotop Pred 4 dnevi +27

    Adam Ondra
    1:48:09
    1:59:40
    2:22:57
    2:44:47

    • Akalight lol
      Akalight lol Pred 3 dnevi

      the last one is soo fucking sad, and ty for the links

    • Stefan
      Stefan Pred 4 dnevi +1

      i love you

  • Brent Spillane
    Brent Spillane Pred 4 dnevi +1

    Terrible commentary.

  • Theaddekalk
    Theaddekalk Pred 4 dnevi +2

    ondra going no edge shoe,, noice

    • Theaddekalk
      Theaddekalk Pred dnevom

      +Cacovangor ye I know they have several different, saw that now also . But it's not often a boulderer uses the no edge shoe. So I thought it was nice. Thanks for your info though

    • Cacovangor
      Cacovangor Pred dnevom +1

      Theaddekalk Adam brings both Solutions and Futuras to the mat, using the Solutions primarily except when reading a crux as including more friction from body position. Both are built on the same last with similar characteristics except thickness on the sole and tensioning system with the heel cup which makes the Futura more reliable standing or heeling from volumes.

  • Alfonso Jimenez
    Alfonso Jimenez Pred 4 dnevi +2

    ..disappointing final routes for women, the same than last year in the same place.

  • Duzurix Duzurix
    Duzurix Duzurix Pred 4 dnevi +10

    Imagine getting 4 tops and beign barely on podium xD

  • Ni_Cò
    Ni_Cò Pred 4 dnevi +2

    Janja

  • Luke Gowen
    Luke Gowen Pred 4 dnevi +1

    Is anyone else having huge lag in this video?!?!

  • Iki10
    Iki10 Pred 4 dnevi +2

    Men's 1:30:17

    Men, Boulder 1
    Jernej Kruder 1:30:55
    Vadim Timonov 1:32:43
    Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:37:07
    Anze Peharc 1:40:02
    Rei Kawamata 1:43:42
    Adam Ondra 1:48:15

    Men, Standings 1
    1:50:03

    Men, Boulder 2
    Jernej Kruder 1:50:35
    Vadim Timonov 1:51:57
    Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:53:55
    Anze Peharc 1:55:12
    Rei Kawamata 1:57:25
    Adam Ondra 1:59:43

    Men, Standings 2
    2:01:02

    Men, Boulder 3
    Jernej Kruder 2:03:18
    Vadim Timonov 2:07:10
    Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:11:20
    Anze Peharc 2:14:10
    Rei Kawamata 2:18:19
    Adam Ondra 2:23:00

    Men, Standings 3
    2:25:53

    Men, Boulder 4
    Jernej Kruder 2:26:15
    Vadim Timonov 2:27:50
    Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:31:50
    Anze Peharc 2:36:16
    Rei Kawamata 2:40:38
    Adam Ondra 2:44:50

    Men, Standings Final
    2:49:21

  • catie lee
    catie lee Pred 4 dnevi +5

    Where are miho and akiyo??

    • plancked
      plancked Pred 4 dnevi +5

      Akiyo is skipping this one for training reasons, and Miho has a shoulder injury.

    • riricky815
      riricky815 Pred 4 dnevi

      catie lee heard that from semi final

    • riricky815
      riricky815 Pred 4 dnevi

      catie lee commentator said one of them has shoulder injury if I didnt misheard that

  • james64ibm
    james64ibm Pred 4 dnevi +23

    1:18:44 Janja simply ignoring holds to give herself at least a bit of a challenge.

    • Climbing with Kai
      Climbing with Kai Pred 3 dnevi +2

      She did not ignore it but used a different sequence ;)using it eventually. Fanny Gibert did ignore a hold.

  • cheznikos
    cheznikos Pred 4 dnevi +2

    Pretty bad for the men too, deciding on just one Boulder. What a waste that was

    • cheznikos
      cheznikos Pred 3 dnevi +1

      +FinalFr3ak why are you humiliating yourself like that? have you even watched?

    • FinalFr3ak
      FinalFr3ak Pred 3 dnevi +1

      ?! What? How is that bad if the last problem decides who wins? That is the best you can hope for? It made it really exciting to watch O__o

  • Juhani Kuronen
    Juhani Kuronen Pred 4 dnevi +28

    After hard and varying semi finals for women I was afraid this might happen. I rather watch the athletes struggle for the top than count on who did NOT flash all of them.

    • Juhani Kuronen
      Juhani Kuronen Pred 3 dnevi

      +bolsachem Probably want to make sure they don't have to use qualification round count backs. But some logic would work for finals. The best final boulders were in the world championships last year. Janja topped 2 and got 1 zone, and I think no one else even got a top.

      Rule of thumb: If in doubt, make them bit harder.

    • bolsachem
      bolsachem Pred 3 dnevi +3

      i noticed it happened last year too. semis were harder and finals. and attempts matter way more

  • Kumato Bazha
    Kumato Bazha Pred 4 dnevi +2

    Really enjoyed the female commentator! 😁👌

  • Nuno Fonseca
    Nuno Fonseca Pred 4 dnevi +18

    After such an interesting semis for the women what a disappointing final with flashes by most athletes on some good looking problems but so undercooked for top climbers. Don't understand what the route setters were thinking when they conjured these one's up :\

    • Nuno Fonseca
      Nuno Fonseca Pred 21 uro

      +Obadiah Jessup That's true in many senses. Yet these competitions are not meant to please people but to test athletes abilities and in that regard the female problems hardy challenged them...

    • Obadiah Jessup
      Obadiah Jessup Pred dnevom

      No one is ever happy

  • Katzen33
    Katzen33 Pred 4 dnevi +23

    They should've taken out a couple holds from the women's routes 😂
    But seriously it kinda sucks having so little in between 3rd-1st

  • greengraycolor
    greengraycolor Pred 4 dnevi +15

    Camera man, please show entire problem during observation. Please!

    • Philipp !
      Philipp ! Pred 3 dnevi +3

      and climber while climbing😂😥

  • Lea Weinrich
    Lea Weinrich Pred 4 dnevi +39

    Not a big fan of the female commentator. Main comment being "come on"

    • Bloxeh
      Bloxeh Pred 3 dnevi +8

      My impression was that she was struggling with finding words in english due to nervousness. I assume she has a lot interesting things to say, just needs to get more practice.

    • Sam Staps
      Sam Staps Pred 4 dnevi

      +Pecan Pie Gamba, gamba! 😂😂

    • Pecan Pie
      Pecan Pie Pred 4 dnevi +12

      Agree. Not the best choice. Some climbers are fantastic at providing a more in depth insight and analysis from a professional angle. Here that insight consisted of "come on", "gamba", "nice", "yes", "amazing", "mmm" etc.

    • SirGabe
      SirGabe Pred 4 dnevi +1

      Yea she's making me anxious... She makes a much better fan than commentator

    • Jorge of Albion
      Jorge of Albion Pred 4 dnevi +1

      Yea, she seemed high to me...

  • Tamás Varga
    Tamás Varga Pred 4 dnevi +26

    Overall very good quality of broadcasting, I much enjoy the speakers too. One important request, please please please show the results board every time when climbers are leaving and entering. Thanks in advance

    • Miro Trifonov
      Miro Trifonov Pred 2 dnevi +4

      +JJ Sevins She's not a comentator, she's a competitor and the people climbing are probably her firends :)

    • JJ Sevins
      JJ Sevins Pred 3 dnevi +1

      Charlie Boscoe is great as always. His female co-commentator was annoying because she wanted to cheer people on "c'mon... c'monnn... nice! c'mon!" which is not a commentary. She says "c'mon over 200 times in 30 mins... wtf"

  • Lukas Gehring
    Lukas Gehring Pred 4 dnevi +22

    the ifsc logo blocks the clock.

  • dimogiorgos
    dimogiorgos Pred 4 dnevi +81

    Such a terrible routesetting for women. Too easy boulders and the last two almost identical.

    • Jonas Joha Johanson
      Jonas Joha Johanson Pred 2 dnevi

      Well, all is said about the difficulty problems of the women problems. That being said, who else was surprised about the style of climbing we saw? I expected some sort of this so-called "Tokyo" or "Japanese" style. I though we'll have to suffer some more of this dynamic run and jump parkour like type of climbing. I appreciate the change though. Possibly the criticism of the past had some effect after all.

    • Polly Strott
      Polly Strott Pred 3 dnevi +3

      Especially compared to the semifinal problems!

    • Marina C.Ll.
      Marina C.Ll. Pred 3 dnevi +5

      Completely agree, I’m quite disappointed considering we’re talking about a world cup. But the athletes managed to pull off an amazing show nevertheless

    • dimogiorgos
      dimogiorgos Pred 3 dnevi +5

      +David Murray I hope you understand that everyone is entitled into his opinion. Many people agree that the women problems were really bad. You can disagree with that and it is respectable. However, your irony makes you a moron. I am not a route setter but I can always express my opinion about the routesetting of a world cup event.

    • David Murray
      David Murray Pred 3 dnevi +4

      I agree that the finals problems appeared to be on the easier side. That said, Janja mentions that she still had fun and that it was difficult because she had to be "super focused." Also, I liked watching the different methods employed to top the final problem. While the setting might have been a bit better, I wouldn't call it "terrible." You must be an experienced professional route setter though and know better than these setters and myself. Please tell us the last IFSC World Cup event at which you were setting so that we can learn from your expertise.

  • cheznikos
    cheznikos Pred 4 dnevi +23

    That route setter really messed it up for the ladies. Too bad

  • Daniel Horton
    Daniel Horton Pred 4 dnevi +3

    M3 kinda reminds of the boulder problem that Honnold free solo’d on El Cap. Obviously, it’s not exactly the same, but it’s similar

  • Michael Scytale
    Michael Scytale Pred 4 dnevi +4

    Worst final ever, do you think only flash is cool to watch??? Not for me it's so boring ...

    • Equationist
      Equationist Pred 4 dnevi +4

      +cheznikos While difficulty can be hard to gauge, it's weird that they set W3 and W4 with almost identical dynos.

    • Nuno Fonseca
      Nuno Fonseca Pred 4 dnevi +2

      +Daniel Horton A world cup route setter knows well the world class athletes. They know what these outstanding climbers are capable of...

    • cheznikos
      cheznikos Pred 4 dnevi +4

      +Daniel Horton bullshit. Terrible route setting. Worst I can remember. Identical moves, too easy, not any classical type of moves, just some nasty bad stuff here.

    • Daniel Horton
      Daniel Horton Pred 4 dnevi

      Michael Scytale as a setter, you can’t know how the climbers will fare. It’s pure chance. It wasn’t their intent to make it easier than the semis. In fact, these were likely made to be harder. It just so happened that they suited the climbers in the final. Quit bitchin

    • Tactical Chunder
      Tactical Chunder Pred 4 dnevi +3

      Men’s was pretty good this time round. Women’s was shocking. Needs to be much harder.

  • Weight Loss Dietitian
    Weight Loss Dietitian Pred 4 dnevi +1

    I can't be the only one that likes my conment

    • Stefan S
      Stefan S Pred 4 dnevi +5

      nice "conment" you have there

  • Перваяя Домофонная

    Шона, спасибо что вернулась. Shauna the best! 😍

  • D KR
    D KR Pred 4 dnevi +10

    2x Slovenian win. That’s really, really impressive. There must be some monkey gene in Slovenian DNA others don’t have or something...

    • Din Du
      Din Du Pred 4 dnevi

      It's a small country of 2 million Slavs but they put a heavy emphasis on fitness and sports.

    • Daniel Horton
      Daniel Horton Pred 4 dnevi

      Racist

  • jankoup
    jankoup Pred 4 dnevi +3

    Kruder is a GOD !

  • Loreto Guazo Covas
    Loreto Guazo Covas Pred 4 dnevi +52

    The live streaming is going better and better ! thanks for it !

  • Florian Strasser
    Florian Strasser Pred 4 dnevi +1

    ondra just shredding

  • Dante Bonaccorso
    Dante Bonaccorso Pred 4 dnevi +10

    Climbing start 29:30